Installation will always vary depending on the particular situation. Is it an installation in a new house with no roof and no internal walls – or is it an installation in an already inhabited attic? Is it a house with tiles or is it a house with 100-year-old slate?
The installation instructions below are split into sections, so you can use the specific parts of the instructions that are relevant for your particular project.
Take the roof window out of the packaging. Remove the side-protecting cardboard, the protecting lath from the bottom frame and the small cardboard box from the top frame. Lay the window down on its side frame and carefully, fully open the sash.
To install the frame, it must be separated from the sash. Locate and press the locking mechanism on the left and right hinge (they should make a click). Once the hinges are released, carefully remove the sash and place it in the box or on something protective, with the top side facing the ground.
Fix the bracket 50mm from the corner of the frame.
Fix the brackets to the frame. Use two screws for each bracket.
Before starting to install your roof window, make sure you have the relevant safety equipment and correct tools to hand. It will make a big difference!
Once inside the roof space, you may find that your rafters are covered in plaster board or other covering. If this is the case it is important to establish the correct place in which to make a hole. By measuring from an external wall, you will be able to accurately determine the position of the window in relation to the outside.
Once an approximate position has been determined, it should be marked out accordingly.
A pilot hole should be cut out and removed to allow for more accurate measurement.
By inserting a rule either side of the pilot hole, the rafters can be located and marked out.
It is useful to work from the inside edge of a rafter, so as to minimise unnecessary framing out of the window.
When removing insulation, ensure that you take appropriate precautions by wearing a safety mask and, if necessary, goggles.
If it is necessary to remove a rafter, it is important that you consider the structural implications of doing so. If you are uncertain, we recommend you seek professional advice before proceeding further.
It is better to remove the surrounding area of boarding so that you can see the big picture.
Be sure to support the area below where you are cutting the rafter…
…and secure support beneath the top of the rafter.
You can then mark out, cut and remove the timbers.
You can then mark out, cut and remove the timbers.
Frame out the prospective opening to the correct height and width.
…to allow enough height for the reveals to splay back at the correct angle.
Mark out the opening on the underside of the roof membrane. Do not remove more than necessary – you can always cut it back more later.
Cut out and remove the membrane, exposing the battens and the roof covering.
If you have a tiled roof, carefully begin to remove the tiles from inside. Make sure the area below this roof area is clear to avoid injury or damage if an accident occurs.
If you have a composite thin tile covering, you may need to drill and cut through to make the initial opening.
If you have a slate covering it may be necessary to use a slate ripper to remove the nails.
Carefully remove the tiles around the hole. Make sure that the area below the roof is clear to avoid injury or damage if an accident occurs.
Carefully remove the tiles around the hole. Make sure that the area below the roof is clear to avoid injury or damage if an accident occurs.
Determine the correct height of the bottom support batten according to the installation instructions.
Use a spirit level to set the batten.
Fasten the batten to support the window frame.
Determine the position of the upper support batten according to the installation instructions. Set the level and fix the batten.
Cut the roofing foil/felt by cutting towards the corners of the hole.
Secure the roofing foil/felt all over.
Carefully pass the frame through the opening. Place the frame onto the support batten and lay it flat on the rafters.
If the frame is level, fix the bottom brackets.
Mount the sash to the frame to check that it opens and closes smoothly.
Check that the vertical gaps between the sash and the frame are even on both sides.
If the sash is not parallel with the frame, you can use a crowbar to set the gap.
Check if the horizontal gap is parallel at the bottom when in a slightly opened position.
If the vertical gap is not parallel, use the black plastic wedge for the top brackets. If the frame is correctly aligned, fix the top brackets (and side brackets if present) as well.
Remove the sash from the frame once more.
It is important to ensure the water tightness of a roof window against the elements. It is therefore recommended that a collar of waterproof membrane is placed around the frame. First, cut the four strips that will surround the frame, starting with the bottom piece.
Staple the membrane to the frame.
Loosen the batten underneath the frame to allow for the positioning of the membrane.
When fixing the side pieces, make sure you cut and tightly secure around the roof battens.
Prepare the “Y” cut next to the window to fix the foil to the battens.
Prepare the “Y” cut next to the window to fix the foil to the battens.
Prepare the “Y” cut next to the window to fix the foil to the battens.
Fix the top piece of membrane underneath the existing roof membrane.
If the roof is counter-battened, it may be necessary to remove a small section of batten in order to slide the cover piece into place.
Cut the existing membrane over the rafter to allow the top collar piece to be slid underneath. Lift up the cut piece and fix the top collar piece underneath and to the frame. Replace the existing piece and fix.
Depending on the height of the tiles and proximity to the base of the window, it is sometimes necessary (with profiled tiles) to shape the tiles underneath the window to allow the corrugated apron to sit correctly.
Measure out the desired cut point and use an angle grinder to chamfer the edges.
Be sure to wear the appropriate safety equipment when using a grinder.
Install the chamfered tiles underneath the window.
Use your hand to press and smooth the apron to the contours of the tiles.
Remove and slightly bend back the top part to ensure a better fit of the tiles.
Put it back to its position and smooth the apron if necessary.
Fit bottom frame covering with screws.
Fit bottom frame covering with screws.
Fit bottom frame covering with screws.
Fit the side flashing sections. Make sure the side flashing section fits in the bottom section.
Fold the flap of the bottom flashing onto the side flashing.
Fit the side frame covering. Make sure that the side frame covering fits the flaps of the bottom frame covering.
Fix the side frame coverings with screws.
Fix top frame “U” profile with screws.
Fix top frame “U” profile with screws
Fix the top flashing section. It should sit tightly over the existing top window cover part.
Fasten the top flashing section using the flappers on the side cover parts.
Fasten the flashing side parts to the battens using the clips provided.
Fasten the flashing side parts to the battens using the clips provided.
Trim the foam around the side and top flashing according to the tile profiles for a smooth and watertight fit.
Cut the tiles above the window and next to the window if necessary to ensure the distances are in accordance with the installation instructions.
Mount the sash to the frame. Check if the sash opens and closes smoothly.
That’s it! You have now installed your roof window.
Replace the slates beneath the window. Replace the slates as you go up the frame with each side flashing section.
Fix the bottom section of the flashing to the frame.
Fit and fix the bottom cover part.
Replace the slates as you go up the frame with each side flashing section.
Fit side flashing sections, ensuring they sit level with the slates.
Trim the top side flashing.
You will most likely have to cut the top side flashing so that it finishes flush with the top of the frame.
Repeat on other side
Repeat these procedures for the other side of the frame.
Fit and fix the side cover parts.
Fit and fix the side cover parts.
Fit and fix the side cover parts.
Fit and fix the top cover parts.
Fix the top flashing section.
It should sit tightly over the top window cover part.
Replace roofing material above the window maintaining the recommended tolerances (60-100mm).
Replace the sash in the frame. Make sure you support the frame firmly before inserting the hinge arms into the locking mechanism.
That’s it! You have now installed your roof window.
The RUC collar makes it easy to have a watertight installation. For best results fit it before you get started with the rest of the fitting.
Place slates beneath the window that will support the bottom flashing tray.
Form the slates around the window, cutting out as necessary.
Keep an even distance (say 12mm) from the side frame) with a tidy line.
Fix the bottom tray to window, using clips provided.
Fix the bottom cover part to the window.
Fix the side flashings on both the left and right side.
Secure both flashings using the clips provided.
Fix top cover part over side covers
Fix the hood section, and secure using clips provided
Build slates back towards window frame.
Try to make sure the line of the slates follows the bottom tray.
… and make sure to fit the slates so that the line going up the flashing is straight and tidy.
Continue to the top on both sides.
You may need to cut the top row to create a tight fit around the top hood.